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How To Forge A Ring

How To Forge A Ring

Forging is a metalworking technique that has been used for centuries. Traditionally, it has been used to create a whole host of different pieces of equipment, from weapons to architectural infrastructures. But it is also a form of traditional jewellery making, used to make rings, brooches and pendants. Would you like to give this historical method a go?

One of the best ways to try it is by starting with a ring. So, discover how to forge a ring, the tools needed for the process and more, below.

What does forging a ring mean?

In simple terms, ring forging is a type of traditional jewellery making where the metal is heated up and hammered until it forms the desired shape and size of a ring. This includes the process of annealing too, where the metal used is heated up to a specific temperature to make it more malleable and easier to work with. Find out more about this artisan jewellery making technique throughout the blog.

Is ring forging still used by jeweller’s today?

In traditional jewellery workshops, ring forging is still used to this day. However, it is much less practiced on a wider scale. This technique is a great way for beginners to try their hand at metalsmithing, as the process is fairly straightforward, and it does not require a long list of tools. Fancy giving it a go? We’ll run you through how to forge a ring and all the steps required so you can give it a go from your own home.

Tools and equipment needed for forging a ring

How to forge a ring at home: step by step

  1. Measuring. The first step in the ring forging process is to measure out the length of the round wire to determine the size of your ring. For more information on this, consult our ring sizing guide for jewellers.
  2. Thin out the metal. Place one end of the metal on the flat surface of the anvil, holding the other side securely. Similarly, use the flat side of your ball-pein or cross-pein hammer and strike the piece, slowly working away from your body. Then rotate the metal so you can do the same on the other side until the metal has thinned out.
  3. Repeat on the reverse. Next, simply repeat the previous step but on the other side of the metal. Frequently measure with a ruler as the thinner the metal gets, the longer it becomes. As you near the end of this step, the metal on the ends should taper inwards while the metal in the middle should remain the same width.
  4. Decipher the shape. Now it’s time to decide on the shape of your design. If you’re aiming for a rounded look, anneal the metal then place it back on the anvil. Then, take your ball-pein hammer and strike the metal while simultaneously rolling the hammer along the surface. This will help to soften the edges and eventually round them off.
  5. Shape the metal. After annealing the metal again, you’re ready to start shaping. To do this, hold one end of the metal and place the other over the round nose of the anvil. Hammer around this until a curve starts to form up until roughly halfway, then, repeat on the opposite sides until the ends meet or begin to overlap.
  6. Finish the piece. Once the ring shape has been formed, neaten up the edges with either your piercing saw or a file, then proceed to solder together. Then, place the ring on the mandrel and hit with your ball-pein hammer to round it up. Once done, you can further file the ring until smooth and, if desired, create a high shine finish with some wet and dry abrasive papers.

And that’s how to forge a ring at home! If you’d like to use a specific type of metal, and you’re wondering how to forge a gold ring or how to forge a ring from steel, you’ll be pleased to know the process is the same! Simply adjust by using the appropriate type of solder for a smooth and professional look.

Before you master the technique yourself, make sure you have all the jewellery tools and bullion you need from Cooksongold.

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The Future of Diamonds

Future Diamonds Trendvision Esther Ligthart Bizzita DeBeers Madestones David Borugh Jewellery Outlook

Talking about the future of diamonds is exciting enough. But talking about it in front of an expert audience is rather challenging! I can’t deny feeling butterflies! However, after a short while on stage, I got so engaged in the Talk. I forgot all about those butterflies!

It helped to see friendly faces in the audience. Many people I knew from the jewelry business, my journalist- and blogger peers, designers such as Alessio Boschi and others who were all looking encouraging and ready to hear what we had to say. There really was a vivid, vibrant, exciting mood in the room!


The Panel on the Future of Diamonds:

The panel consisted of important players within the jewelry and diamond business.

Paola de Luca, creative director & founder of Trendvision Jewellery + Outlook
David Brough, moderator, and editor and co-founder of Jewellery Outlook.
Esther Ligthart, consultant, editor, and founder of
Thierry Silber, CEO, and founder of Madestones.
Tomasz Donocik, Designer
Stephen Lussier, Executive VP. Consumers & Brands -De Beers Group
Pramod Agarwal, GJEPC Chairman
Ash Allibhai, Fashion Director- ASBO magazine

FutureDiamondsEstherLigthartAsh AllibhaiVicenzaOroPanel

Marketing, we still don’t get it!

For me, the most important thing was to give something to the audience to think about or to take away as inspiration. Too many times, seminars, workshops, and talks tend to focus on talking too much about the person or brand itself. Giving way too little on providing something of value to the listener.

In marketing today, it’s all about listening and engaging with your targeted audience. It’s not about sending, but about receiving and then giving people content that really solves problems, inspires them, and add value to what they find valuable.

Easier said than done. But it’s the only way.
Would we be able to do that as a panel to a crowd of journalists, buyers, and designers, manufacturers, and brands? Or would we lose ourselves in the ongoing bickering between natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds? I’ll write more about that subject soon, but let’s dive into the Future of Diamonds Talk on the morning of the 18th of January 2020.

FutureDiamondsDavid BroughPramod AgarwalVicenzaOroPanel

Let’s talk about diamonds!

After a welcoming word by Marco Carnielo and a short speech by Gaetano Cavalieri, President of Cibjo, Pramod Argawal, GJEPC from India got a moment to share something about their values.
David Brough from the Jewellery Outlook, a valued colleague of mine, was appointed moderator by Paola de Luca, the well-known jewelry trendwatcher who travels all over the globe to share her views on upcoming trends and guidelines with manufacturers and brands.

Paola is a force of nature. A woman with incredible energy and charisma. Seated on the other side, she played, with her usual passion, the disrupter.
We knew beforehand that emotions run high when it comes to diamonds, but we wanted it to be lively and exciting! Engage the public!


Lab-grown versus Natural? Both valid, let’s move on!

We spent a little too much focus on the battle between lab-grown and natural diamonds.
Some people believe in lab-grown diamonds, some are somewhat in the middle, and some are passionately against the whole idea.

At this moment, we don’t seem to be able to have an inspiring conversation about the future of diamonds without having a somewhat heated discussion on lab-grown versus natural. However, let’s hope that we are smart enough to understand that the real threat of lab-grown is the fact that we have lots of people in our business that are not trustworthy. In fact, trust was one of the significant issues that we talked about. We want the consumer to trust us, and it’s vital for the future of our (diamond)jewelry industry that they do! However, manufacturers still get lots of especially smaller sized natural diamonds mixed with lab-grown from suppliers.

There are people like Mehul Choski and his nephew Nirav Modi, big names in the jewelry world, that sold lab-grown as natural diamonds. The price gap between both types of diamonds is significant. This was a high-profile case last year, but I heard years ago about jewelers on Aruba selling lab-grown diamonds to American cruise tourists, as natural. This is what hurts our business most! We should immediately be able to punish every person who deliberately misleads consumers. B2B or B2C and tell media, bloggers, vloggers, and so on, about how we do this. We need to create content. I am one such a content creator with my own reach, and I am still waiting for better information from the authorities in charge. 


Inclusivity is everything, and it means more than you think!

One of the most important outcomes is that we all agreed that the future of diamonds is bright. But not D-flawless bright. Inclusivity is the next big thing. I mentioned this very explicitly in my blog about Jewelry Marketing (link). I also believe that we need to let go of the idea of diamonds being the ultimate symbol of love. Sure, there will be a large group of people who will always turn to diamonds for their engagement rings or those special moments they want to celebrate with a beautiful piece of jewelry.
But inclusivity means two things in this particular case. First of all, Millennials and more so Gen Z, are all about inclusivity.

That means; celebrating body positivity and including people of all races, ages, gender, and sexual preferences.
Secondly, it means that we embrace ”imperfect” diamonds. From fluorescent diamonds to salt and pepper diamonds and everything in between. There are companies such as Le Vian, who turned the less valued brown diamonds into Chocolate Diamonds and added value with design and marketing initiatives. But for way too long, we have been focussing on color and diamonds being as flawless as possible.
Stephen Lussier (De Beers Group) said that De Beers now offers all colors and actually sees value in not focussing on those 4 C’s anymore.

Stephen Lussier was called out by Barbara Palumbo, jewelry & watches journalist from the US, about the ‘ Real is Rare’ campaign. Although Stephen Lussier tried to explain where they were coming from as DPA (Diamond Producers Association), he also agreed that it totally failed. Barbara mentioned that the campaign showed models, way too perfect, of different ages, with clear help of botox, portraying in the Real is Rare campaign. How Real is that?
Although it’s inevitable to make mistakes in business, it’s also precisely what I talked about earlier. Older white men who create marketing for jewelry. With all due respect, they need to get groups on board, females, people from the LGBTQ community, young people, older women, mothers, bloggers, etc. to talk about these campaigns. I mean, call me! I would be more than happy to give my input! 🙂


Tip: big opportunities for non-gender-specific diamond jewelry

London based designer Thomasz Donokic showed the audience how he visioned diamond jewelry design and told me later that he doesn’t market anything as female or male design. His bracelets are unisex, and this is one of the big takeaways about the future of diamonds: genderfluid designs. Not specifically male or female orientated, but for people. All kinds of people.
Personally, I love this idea! And I think it’ll be more prominent than we can imagine now.

Future Of DiamondsEsther

We need to tell better stories about diamonds to consumers!

I tried to convince the audience and the actors from the diamond world specifically, that the consumer today, still have blood diamonds in their minds. They have no idea how our industry is thinking about sustainability, human rights, and work conditions. And what about those holes in the ground? The impact on the planet? On top of that, we fail to explain to them the difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds.

Both have an absolute right to exist, and we need to explain without condemning one or the other, what the difference is.
We congratulate ourselves on how well we do everything and on how we communicate, but outside of our professional bubble, people have no clue. We failed absolutely to be transparent and provide useful information.

Future Diamonds PanelEsther Ash David Tomasz

Talking bad about lab-grown or natural diamonds hurts the whole jewelry industry AND the consumer!

One thing I couldn’t bring to the discussion but really wanted to mention is that we do nobody a favor when talking derogatorily about lab-grown diamonds. Lightbox, a lab-grown diamond brand launched by De Beers, is one of the most beautiful designed websites I have come across. It’s transparent, easy to navigate, and beautifully designed. But it promotes its jewelry for a young audience that won’t mind taking their ”not so precious” lab-grown diamond to the beach. The message is: if you lose it, no worries, it wasn’t a precious stone, to begin with.
That’s incredibly tone-deaf and condescending! Jewelry is almost always emotion. It means something to people, and for the most substantial portion of consumers, a 400, 600, or 800 dollar ring is a lot of money!

FutureDiamondsTomasz DonokicBizzitaVicenzaOroPanel

Love and diamonds

The famous quote ”A Diamond is Forever” brought big business to De Beers and to everyone working with diamond jewelry. But times are changing, and we see a whole group of people who choose design first and put the diamond in the second place. Or consumers who decide to go for entirely different gemstones, because it resonates more with their values and ideas of symbolism. It suits the new generations very well not to go along with a marketing idea about what love is and what brands say we should buy to seal that love. They choose a different path, their own.

FutureDiamondsEstherLigthartPramod AgarwalVicenzaOroPanel

Other luxury goods

Thierry Silber of Madestones said that as soon as we would stop bickering over lab-grown versus natural diamonds, we could focus on the real enemy of our industry; other luxury goods.
I talked about this issue also in this blog.
He is right, if we fail to enchant the consumer, we will lose them to other luxury goods. This is unimaginable, and we owe it both to ourselves, but even more to the consumer, to get our messages right again. Jewelry is the ultimate personal luxury. The gratification one gets from buying, owning, and wearing a piece of jewelry, can’t be compared to a bag or sneakers. However lovely they both are too, jewelry is far more emotionally entangled in people’s lives. It becomes part of their personality. Part of their story. We should always keep this in mind and provide jewelry that is relevant to who they are, what values they have, what visions on life, love, spirituality, etc. they have!



As the panel had 6 members, plus Paola and David, it was hard to get enough time to get all the ideas across. However, we noticed a room filled with excitement, and people really engaged with the panel and the conversation. Here and there, people started to applaud ( yes, I scored a little applause too! 😉 )

FutureDiamondsEstherLigthartPaola De luca VicenzaOroPanel

So what are the takeaways from the seminar:

Diamonds have a fantastic future, but…
We need to be truly inclusive in our thinking, embrace ”imperfection” as it is the new perfection!
We need to create far better marketing and content about diamonds and stop bickering about lab-grown versus natural.
Sustainability is key. During the show, sustainability was almost the focal point of every Talk and event. Sustainability is not perfect yet, but we are getting there.
The traceability of diamonds is another big step, and it’s not far away anymore. Tracer is one such invention, but surely there will be others.
A big market to explore is non-gender specific jewelry.


Proud of VicenzaOro

I am really proud of VicenzaOro. This show is doing so much to provide more and more value to their visitors. For the first time, the VO Vintage Room was launched, open to the public. I have taken a sneak peek and LOVED it. Beautiful vintage pieces of jewelry from big names or long ago and watches that will make collectors and fanciers drool. The show hosts numerous talks and is open to ideas on how to give even more value to their visitors.


A thank you:

Thank you, Paola de Luca, for the invitation and for being that warm whirlwind of female empowerment, wisdom and passionate creativity. Don’t you ever lose your wild side ;-)!David Brough for leading the conversation and taking care of me when I shared my nervousness, thanks to Pramod Argawal for being so kind to share me your personal thoughts on how to speak in front of an audience beforehand too. Thanks to Thierry Silber for being there and share your views and visions, even when you got ”speldenprikjes” (pinpricks) all the time when it came to talking about lab-grown diamonds. Thanks to Stephen Lussier, who told me to picture 5 friends in the kitchen and how would I share my points of view with them, when I shared my slight fear of talking in front of an audience, and for contributing to this vivid conversation with his rich experience in the diamond world. Thanks to Tomasz, who cooly talked about his idea for diamond jewelry design for the future (check him out, his jewelry rocks!). Thanks to Ash Allibhai! We met half an hour before the talk and we started to chat immediately and it felt like I knew him much longer. The jokes and laughs, awww, loved it! Thank you!  And thanks to VicenzaOro for inviting and hosting me, to my colleagues for a great time together. And thanks to the audience and you, the reader. We really need to share, collaborate and help each other, in order to allow the jewelry world to sparkle like never before. 🙂

More ideas to share and more insight into the diamond’s future from my point of view next week! Stay tuned 🙂
















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Travel treat: extraordinary jewels! My latest day trip to Munich was definitely the biggest highlight of 2020 yet. Previewing Hemmerle creations year after year at Masterpiece Fair,  Pad Art Design and Tefaf I’ve been an admirer of their impeccable craftsmanship, but seeing the magic of it coming to life was extraordinary. Thank you to one of my favourite German jewelry brands, the House of Hemmerle for this experience!


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A post shared by GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla ??? (@gemologue) on Feb 8, 2020 at 11:54am PST


Thanks for stopping by! Which jewel is your favourite from my visit?⁠ Let me know in comments below!

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello


GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.


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What Does Your Jewellery Say About You?

Your jewellery preference says a lot about your personality. Not just that, it also tells about the person you are! Ever wondered what your accessories tell about you to people you meet? 

Let’s take a look!

Miss Coy 

The girls who like simple pendants and little earrings are usually confident and not particular about the way they look. They are generally introverts but once you actually get imitation jewellery online to know them, you know the real confident girl that she is. They generally have sentimental value attached to the jewellery they wear.

                                             Women's Pendants Online

Miss Narcissist 

People who love to wear personalized jewellery, having initials of their names, etc absolutely love themselves. They are self-obsessed and freedom to speech is their birthright and they have no qualms in expressing their feelings. They always stand for their loved ones, no matter what!

Personalised jewellery

Miss Chic

These are a bunch of polished and elegant people and they love pearls the most. Think of Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur! They are family-oriented and a no-nonsense person. They have an acquired taste in fashion and usually stay low-key. Their poise and calm conduct make them stand out even in a crowded room.

Miss Chic Pearl Jewellery

Miss Matching

These people are extremely organized and take responsibility for their actions. They are great counselors and people come up to them for deep meanings of life. They dress up in monochromes and wear similar colors from head-to-toe. You will always see them wearing matching neckpiece and earrings. (Check out the Amazing “Match-the-Dress” app by Voylla!)

Women's Necklace Sets

Miss Vintage

These people have a strong inclination towards history, culture, architecture, and languages. They are slightly reserved but can talk endlessly about different cultures and literature. They have no tolerance towards fake people and value little things in life.

vintage collage

Miss Bold & Beautiful

These are the people who can are extremely confident in their own skin and do not need any validation. They have a refined taste for fashion and carry themselves with élan. They are immensely focused and dedicated towards their work and accomplish everything with enthusiasm and zeal. They change their look from drab to fab in just five minutes! They don’t take hours to get ready for a party. In fact, they just don a head-turning accessory and are all set to go!

Miss Bold and Beautiful

Miss Rebel

These people are eccentric and edgy even when it comes to fashion. These are the people who usually love chains and spikes. They love going for trekking and some are even tom-boyish. They dare to live their own dreams and know no boundaries.

Designer Chains

So which one are you?  which type of jewellery you like? Did you prefer to buy online jewellery? Leave your comments below and let us know! 


buy designer jewellery, buy jewellery india online, buy jewellery online, celebrities, coy, fashion, fashion jewellery, Imitation Jewellery, Online Jewellery, whatyourjewellerysaysaboutyou

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#245 How to Pivot Your Sales Strategy When Your Shows Are Off and Stores Aren’t Buying

“Shows are canceled, stores are closed, and sales are down. How do I sell at a time like this?”

This sentiment has been popping up all over the jewelry community. It’s a scary and uncertain time, but you still have a family to feed and a business to run.

So what do you do?

Here’s what I think, m’dear… I truly believe we have an opportunity to think differently about how to reach our customers and come from a place of service.

Yes, it’s a strange time. People need something to feel good about now more than ever. You can still run your business and be sensitive at the same time.

It’s about profiting through the recession, not profiting off of it.

There are people who don’t want to buy jewelry right now, and that’s okay! But it’s up to you to reach out to the people who do.

The only way to do this is through online sales.

So here are some sales techniques you can use right now to pivot and keep things moving in your business until things calm down.

Click here to download the show notes

Return to Your Roots

Have you ever “asked” for a sale?

It might sound weird, but grassroots techniques are actually some of the most effective and underutilized sales strategies, especially for newer designers.

Now would be a great time to check in with previous customers. Ask how they’re doing, and if it feels right, you can invite them to a sale or even recommend a piece of jewelry to them.

Send Weekly Emails

If you’ve been dragging your feet on email marketing, now is the time to act.

With social distancing measures in place, people are spending more time on screens than ever. That means they’re actually reading their emails.

Flourish & Thrive Academy has tons of resources to help you get a leg up on your email strategy, including a done-for-you email marketing bundle and a guide on how to build your email list.

Don’t miss out on this opportunity to be a positive force in your customers’ lives!

Host A Virtual Trunk Show

All maker’s fairs and craft shows have been shut down for the foreseeable future, but you can still host your own trunk show online.

Hosting a virtual trunk show is an opportunity for customers from around the world to connect with you and your brand. 

Not only can this approach drive sales – but it also helps build hype and excitement on your social media accounts and allows clients to feel a personal connection with you… Similar to what they might feel by meeting you in person for a real trunk show.

Here’s how two F&TA students made $8,200 by selling their jewelry live online.

The designers who are making the most of this situation are leaning into customer service and selling online.

Listen to the full episode above for more strategies you can start implementing now to stay on top of sales.

Until next week, m’dear!

xo, Tracy


Train Your Customers to Buy From You Online

Bonus Episode #1 Your Jewelry and Product Business in the Face of Uncertainty

Done-For-You Email Marketing Bundle

Episode #87: How to Build an Email List for Your Jewelry E-Commerce Business

Episode #178: The Epic Online Promotion Strategy that Brought in $8200 in 4 Days

List of Financial Aid and Business Resources for Makers, Designers, and Artists



Listen on Apple Podcasts!

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What are the best soldering tools you need?


Whether you’re a seasoned jewellery maker or you’re just getting started, you’ll likely find yourself doing plenty of soldering. So, what are the best soldering tools that you need for your workshop?

We’ll talk you through all the tools you’ll need if you’re a beginner, and all the jewellery soldering tools professional jewellery makers could benefit from. Interested?

Discover more about all the different kinds of soldering tools below.


Basic soldering tools for beginners

If you’re still new to the world of soldering, you might be wondering what are the best soldering tools for beginners. And that’s why we’ve put together a checklist of all the basic soldering tools you’ll need for your jewellery making projects.

Here’s what we recommend you pick up to start building your jewellery making soldering tool kit:

  • A soldering block. You’ll need one of these to protect your workbench from heat damage when soldering. You can manipulate the block to suit your needs as well, as it can be broken down into chunks to support whatever is being soldered.
  • Soldering tweezers. These will help you to manouevre the piece you’re soldering in a simple and safe manner. It’s important to note that reverse action tweezers can’t be used with pickle, so you’ll need to pick up some plastic tweezers for that.
  • Hand torch. A vital piece of equipment for soldering, you’ll need a hand torch in order to heat up the solder quickly and efficiently.
  • Sheet shears. Quickly cut up strip solder and fine sheet to suit your soldering needs with a pair of sheet shears.

Professional soldering tools for jewellery makers

Now we move onto the professional soldering tools. If you’ve been in the jewellery making industry for a while, you’ll most likely own all of the above soldering tools and equipment. So what else do you need to move from a hobbyist to a professional?

Find out below:

  • Soldering probe. One of the cheaper types of soldering tools for the avid jewellery maker, a soldering probe is a handy tool for quickly guiding molten solder along a join with precision and ease.
  • GRS Soldering Station. Looking for a tool designed to help you with intricate soldering work? The GRS soldering station can do just that. The two three-jointed hands can be manipulated in any way you need providing you with flexibility and security while soldering.
  • GRS Soldering Platform. If you frequently work at high temperatures, then this is the best soldering tool for you. A step up from the standard block, this soldering platform withstands temperatures of up to 1760°C, making it ideal for soldering platinum.
  • Ceramic Soldering Cone. If rings are the primary type of jewellery you sell, it’s worth using tools designed specifically for that. A ceramic soldering cone can be used to support and hold rings while soldering, allowing you to work on them with ease.
  • Aquaflame Micro Welder. Looking to upscale your business? That will require an increased level of stock, so you’ll need a tool to help speed up that process and allow you to make more jewellery to sell. The Aquaflame Micro Welder is an all-in-one soldering system made from high-quality materials, so you can be most efficient at soldering.

And there you have it! All the best soldering tools for the beginner and the professional. Ready to get cracking with your next project? Pick up all the jewellery tools you need from Cooksongold. Or if you’re just getting started and need some inspiration, check out our Soldering Tutorial Round Up For Beginners.

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Why you should not despair if you haven’t become a world-famous jewelry designer (yet)

1.Jewelry Designers.1

One day I’ll be famous kind of jewelry designer

Whatever your situation is, you most probably will be aware that the path to gain recognition, isn’t as smooth as you hoped. Some of you will work for a long time for a jeweler or a brand. You may have put your-once brilliant and fresh-ideas into a drawer, and over time, they remained just there.
In your dreams, you may have pictured how people-one day- would admire your ideas and would be eager to buy and wear your jewelry. Pssst, perhaps you even imagined your brand been picked up by the latest big influencer, jewelry blogger, or let’s get wilder; be worn by your favorite celebrity on the red carpet.

If today you find yourself feeling a tummy ache when you scroll Instagram and see all these successful “others,” or you hear yourself a little too many times condemning such and such artist for having become a commercial “whore” or having “tricked’ others into buying jewelry that isn’t really worth it. If you hear yourself blame others for your unsuccessful attempt to fame, then read this article.

Jewelry Designer Inspiration 9

There is no shortage of brilliant jewelry designers

First of all, there is no shortage of jewelry designers with great ideas. It’s the truth. Every now and then, someone stands up with a new and innovative concept, yet it may not bring him or her all the fame he/she deserves. Sometimes they were too early, sometimes ideas get stolen by more prominent companies with much more power to push this to the public than you will ever have. Something not uncommon in the fashion design world. Fair? No. Reality? Yes.

But are you ready to dive a little deeper with me? The whole idea of fair is lovely but a fairytale, to say the least. In the Western world, especially, we live in a meritocracy. It’s a beautiful idea that we all have the same chances, but in reality, this is not entirely true. Also, the whole concept of a meritocracy makes people clap for your success and often rightfully so. Yet, it makes you also feel responsible for your failures at the very same time.
You might say that this is right and just. But is it? It’s the cause of much unhappiness in this world. The idea that you are to blame entirely for being “unsuccessful” as you had the same opportunities everyone else had. You are to blame for either being all your mistakes or for being just merely lazy.
We think so much of ourselves these days that we are convinced that we control everything and every outcome.

Jewelry Designer Inspiration 1


We tend to forget that often luck is perhaps the most crucial factor for someone’s success. Either as a jewelry designer or just in life itself. Luck and not sheer merit for working hard? Yes.
Having said that, it’s far fairer, if you like, to not see the people who succeeded as heroes but only as people who just were luckier sometimes. Luck is more random than you think.
It is far more constructive to be mindful about how much luck has to do with it all, than keeping blaming yourself or other less successful jewelry designers of being simply not good enough.
Be more realistic and compassionate. For a start.

Jewelry Designer Inspiration 12

What to do?

If you aren’t as successful as you would like to be, stop the blame game. Stop moaning, stop feeling sorry for yourself. Stop also thinking that this is all your fault. It probably isn’t.
Just start fresh. What are you doing well right now? What do others think you are good at? Your spouse, partner, children, family, and friends, what do they think you are good at, what skills and traits do they admire in you?
If you know to lack skills in certain areas, then try to think which skills will help you most to reach your short term goal. Wait, stop! Short term? No ” dream bigger”?


Start with not thinking BIG

Try not to think too big. I know this is a world of: ‘dream big ‘or ‘the sky is the limit, but if this was true for everyone who thought this, there would be far more companies, people, and brands in that sky. And this is not the case. We now know that luck is perhaps the most significant factor of every successful jewelry designer (brand, company, or person). So, where does this put you? Well, luck isn’t in your hands to toss around, so set short term goals then. Many gain following and fame on platforms such as Instagram. More into b2b? Try LinkedIn or a mix of social platforms.
Marketing your product (or service or name) is essential. Maybe this is the skill you lack, and you need to either hire someone or take matters in your own hands and create a strategy on social media. Because however, curated your own website is, almost no one will find you ‘organically’ there.
Set small goals. From 2 new followers every week to try setting up a shoppable account on Pinterest. If you need to improve your digital or artisanal skills, try to find mentors or enroll in classes that help you further.

Jewelry Designer Inspiration 14

Embrace reality more than dreams

Just a quick trip to YouTube, and you’ll find thousands of videos of people telling you what the habits of billionaires are, what 5 things you should do to gain wealth, and so on. The list is endless. And I once too, watched tons of them. Hoping to find that one habit, that one bright insight that would help me to gain the success of ‘my dreams.’
I read so many books, and although each one taught me something, it was never the thing it promised on its cover.
Richard Branson, Steve Jobs, they are always mentioned, but they have/had luck, vision, dedication, support, or even the right amount of struggle that pushed them to go further and bigger. Observe them, but realize that they are unique and not the rule. And there are not you or me.

For me, the moment of realizing what my reality was and how much I loved it came when I walked along the beach, one sunny early morning on the Costa Brava, Spain. I stopped dreaming. Right there and then. I stopped watching all these videos and reading all the books on this topic. I think they have taught me lots, but as I mentioned before, not the things they claimed to show me.
I stopped looking at others, even at my colleagues. And I felt calm.


Limits are sometimes blessings in disguise

What matters genuinely to me are my views and broad interest in culture, philosophy, psychology, nature, and business. My opinions are my set of moral standards and points of view, which I carefully examine now and then. Because of the nature of life and our planet, everything is always changing. I am all about the grey and not much about the black and white when it comes to opinions. And as I stepped more into my daily reality, I understood that the challenges of working from home were also my blessings. I can be there for my son, I take daily walks in nature with my dog. I have coffee and long chats with my husband before my work starts. These are my beautiful distractions, yet I had also seen then as my limits to fly higher.
That early morning, watching the sunrise and feeling its glow sliding on my face, I decided to see all that I perceived as holding me from reaching my dreams to embrace them wholeheartedly as my beautiful reality.
Of course, this sounds very romantic and just something out of the many books I read myself, hahaha, but it always starts, every change we consciously make, with a moment of awareness.


I am cheering you on, you not (yet)successful jewelry designer

Now back to you. What is the reality of your life? What is holding you back? Is that truly what holds you back? What if you stopped dreaming and sought the end of your comfort zone? What tiny step could you do today to make something happen? What if it was only creating an account on a social network? Don’t post anything yet. Just create it. What if you reached out to your favorite blogger, vlogger, influencer online? She or he might not respond but just do it. And then again.
Smaller? Buy a new pencil today for your drawings 🙂 Bigger? Make a mind map of where you are and what actual pragmatic steps you need to take in the next weeks are to get your design noticed. ( or whatever your obtainable goal is)

I am here to cheer you on. And yes, I publish mostly oh and ah pieces on my blog. But in daily life, people don’t wear this kind of jewelry. I will start to write and show more jewelry that is affordable, smaller, and for a much larger audience too. So share your stories with me, share your work, your journey. Be genuine and authentic and not shy to be very pragmatic and real. Embrace being normal, embrace even being mediocre at times. We are all unique; therefore, we are certainly also all mediocre too.
You’ll find that reaching for the stars, or thinking the sky is the limit a much more limiting thought than it claims to be. And I hope that like me and many others, you’ll find joy in the much smaller steps. One day you’ll realize that by doing so, you have reached far more than any dream would have brought you.

Jewelry Designer Inspiration 15




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This Valentine’s Day 2020 celebrate yourself, be kind to yourself and above all, pamper yourself! Let’s make it all about self-love with the GEMOLOGUE Survival Guide Of Things To Do Alone On Valentine’s Day. It’s the perfect time to learn how to start loving yourself. Last year, I shared an unconventional thing to do for Valentine’s Day with my self-gifting guide and styling tips for pearl jewellery. This year, I am sharing my Sparkly Guide For Practicing Self-Love – because the relationship you have with yourself sets the tone for any other relationship you have in your life. You first have to know how to love yourself before you can love anyone else. And we all could use a bit more love in our lives.


I too am learning how to love myself and it’s the most beautiful and the hardest thing ever! If you’re single on Valentines Day you’re in luck, because it’s the best time to treat yourself and and appreciate yourself for everything you do. There are so many nice things you can do for yourself at home! Tap into the healing power of your jewels. Listen to their ancient rhythms and let them fill your heart with warm, sweet love.


Do yourself a favour and let go of that one toxic relationship that always brings you down! Let this be your first Valentine’s Day self love activity. Love yourself first by surrounding yourself with good people who are full of positive, creative energy. If you have the ability to love, you can love yourself first. Let’s master how to practice self-love by filling our hearts with gratitude and taking the time to restore ourselves. Save some energy for yourself. Don’t give it all away to someone or something else. Love yourself first so you can love others more fully.


After the darkest days follows the brightest sunshine. Celebrate those bright days by putting on your best jewels and sparkly attire! Sit down with your jewellery box and take a trip through all the memories. Indulge yourself. Trying on your favourite jewels is like spending time with old friends. Value yourself… preferably in carats – wink, wink! To give you some ideas, set your eyes on this stunning array of love-themed jewels.



Definitely one of the best self-love ideas for Valentine’s Day: Take Control Of Your Life! It’s time to stop putting off that meaningful thing in your life that you’ve been dreaming about and believe in yourself. Stop telling yourself you can’t do it. Make Valentine’s Day the day to take the first step towards your dreams. Grab this opportunity and put your whole heart into it. You’ll never know if you don’t try!


Believe me, this one of the most amazing things to do on Valentine’s day by yourself! Celebrate yourself! Your curves. Your talent. Your skin. Your taste in jewellery. The way your eyes glow. These are all the things that make you, who you are! Give yourself a big hug and be proud of them all. Appreciate yourself. Every inch of you! It’s a short and effective guide to self-love!


Here come all the fun things you can do this Valentine’s Day 2020! Just like the way you spoil other people by giving them the finer things in life, indulge your own fancies. Slide your freshly pedicured feet into that special pair of shoes of yours, rediscover all the treasures you forgot about hiding in your jewellery box, enjoy that decadent chocolate you love so much that is usually off limits, run yourself a bubble bath covered in glitter and pour yourself a glass of sparkling champagne…because you are worth it!

Thanks for stopping by! I would love to know how you practise self-love on Valentine’s Day? Let me know in the comments below!

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello


GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Photographed by Julia Flit. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. Jewellery by Ara Vartanian. Jewellery box by Silvia Furmanovich. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

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Choker Necklaces- History and Best Bollywood Looks

Chokers have been around for quite some time now and are a rage amongst youth. We all know that it is a comeback from the 90’s but did you know it carries a lot more history than this? Yes, to our surprise it signified so many things.

One of its early significances came out in 1700’s where women wore it as a sign of royalty. In a deeper significance, however, women in France tied a red ribbon around their necks during the French Revolution to pay homage to the dead who fell victim to the guillotine. To make the neck-wear more fashionable, women would adorn their ribbons with jewelled baubles or cameo pins.

By the 1800’s, a black ribbon around the neck was often used to identify prostitutes. This trend was later followed by Ballerinas.

It’s in 1940’s it returned as a fashion accessory in America with a spark signifying royalty and power. It was then nicknamed as “dog collars”. It became popular with women embellishing with lace, pearls, and even diamonds.

The iteration of choker set in the 90’s is what we have fresh memories of. It came back with less glamour and more subtle than its ancestors. Diamonds and pearls were replaced with hemps and tattoo chokers. This year, January saw a resurgence of chokers.

Any fashion trend comes to us mostly through our Bollywood divas. They try and test it for us and once it’s approved by the fashion critics (on and off social media), it becomes the style of the season. Like what goes around comes back around, fashion is making its comeback from the 90s. And our favourite is chokers. Since its comeback, our Bollywood divas have been seen adorning them with casuals, formals, everything.

1.Shraddha Kapoor
This cute actress pulls off everything with grace. With her choker look, she looks chic with elegance. This is the simplest and most subtle without-a-fail choker look when you’re in confusion.


2.Alia Bhatt

Alia Bhatt has hardly gone wrong with fashion. She is an impeccable actress with style. Her dreamer choker is perfect for the Airport style with a bomber jacket and denim.


3.Priyanka Chopra
We love the color combination of her ensemble. Sleek, subtle and perfect, just as herself.


4.Deepika Padukone
We love the gothic avatar of Deepika. Something she seldom shows up with, this look oozes her personality. Get this look on a Saturday night and bring out the beautiful bold in you.


5.Sonam Kapoor
Is there anything this lady can’t pull off? We love her experiments with the chokers! Well, like always, Sonam gives us different ideas in which a choker can completely change your look.


6.Parineeti Chopra
With that super weight loss, she has also evolved in her fashion sense. Take some inspiration from her, if you want to escalate your office look.An off shoulder pant-suit with choker is so sleek.


7.Jacqueline Fernandez
Fun and frolic Jacqueline went for a black-metallic feel. Like her bestie Sonam, she totally seems to be in love with chokers.


8.Anushka Sharma
She has kept it simple with the safest looks of choker. Blending in cool and simplicity well, Anushka’s look is exemplary if you want to keep it safe, simple and beautiful.

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Which of these choker styles is your favourite? Share your answers with us in the comments below.

Suit your style and stay in trend.


Alia Bhatt, Anushka Sharma, deepika padukone, jacqueline fernandez, parineeti chopra, Priyanka Chopra, Shraddha Kapoor, sonam kapoor

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#246 Simple Jewelry Bench Tips with Corkie Bolton of Metalsmith Society

Breaking news: double-sided tape is about to rock your world.

At least, that’s what happened to me when I sat down with Corkie Bolton for a second round of podcasting!

It’s so great to meet other jewelers with a passion for making the jewelry industry a more supportive and inspiring place, and Corkie is one of the best!

Last time, she shared her story about founding Metalsmith Society, a community for jewelers to come together and share tips and tricks for working on the bench and improving your jewelry-making process!

This time, she’s sharing 7 of her favorite jeweler life hacks that she’s picked up over the years.

I bet there’s at least one of these you’ve never heard before…

Click here to download the show notes

Tip #1: Draw grid lines on your soldering block.

Sent in by @pyrus_designs.

Tip #2: Use a binder clip to support your cross-locking tweezers.

Sent in by @myrockblues.

Tip #3: Use a penny from before 1982 as a sautering prop!

Sent in by @kkbmetalstudio.

Tip #4: Stick small metal details to double-sided tape for sanding.

Sent in by @mooncoocoo_jewelry.

Tip #5: Use double-sided tape to test out your setting before you commit to soldering.

Sent in by @quiettimejewelry.

Tip #6: Double-sided tape can also be used for laying out and organizing your work.

Sent in by @adornedsmithingco.

Tip #7: How to get the perfect oval shape for your chains.

Sent in by @goldandjayejewelry.

Don’t forget to follow Metalsmith Society on Instagram for more bench tips, and check out Corkie’s website where you can search for specific topics!

xo, Tracy


Metalsmith Society Website

Follow Metalsmith Society on Instagram!

Follow Corkie on Instagram!

Episode #234: Top Business Questions From The Metalsmith Society Answered

Train Your Customers to Buy From You Online

List of Financial Aid and Business Resources for Makers, Designers, and Artists



Listen on Apple Podcasts!

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